HERITAGE

Mythology in Ataun

Ancient proverbs, such as “Izena don guztie omen da…” (All that with a name must be) or “Direnik ez da sinistu behar, ez direnik ez da esan behar” (One must not believe they exist, one must not say that they do not exist) are a testimony to the Ataun people’s belief in mythology, which is a matter of great importance in Ataun.

The town has been devoted to agriculture and breeding livestock since time immemorial and, consequently, it is at nature’s mercy. And so it is that legends have always served as a tool for understanding the environment, facing natural processes and tackling or protecting themselves from dangers and, for want of another explanation, they have served to pacify or motivate the population.

The town is an excellent place for all this, with its mountains, caves and dolmens. As part of oral tradition, legends have, on some occasions, remained unaltered for years and, on other occasions, however, they have undergone many changes on their journeys from one mouth to another: a change of name, location, etc. Consequently, legends are universal and local at the same time. And now, in the shade of new technologies and industrialization, when the habit of telling stories at work or in a group has dried up, this cord has broken at practically all points.

In Ataun, however, Joxemiel Barandiaran made an enormous effort to ensure that this did not happen. He offered his treasure to the town copying the oral tradition down on paper so that the ancestral belief would not die out. And it is thanks to this that we know many mythological stories and spots in Ataun, which are made known every year through the representation of the Arrival of the Gentiles (Jentilen Etorrera) during the San Martín fiestas.

JENTILEN ETORRERA

“The magical world compiled by Joxemiel Barandiaran and represented by the people of Ataun”.

That is what the arrival of the gentiles is all about, says one of its creators. This project, which has the Gentiles as the protagonists came about in 1981 with a view to attracting people to the fiestas in the San Martín district. In fact, the inhabitants of Ataun and Aia are frequently referred to as “gentiles” and the town has an abundance of stories about the gentiles. But these are not the only protagonists, there are others: lords of the wood, witches from Sanmartintxiki, lamias…

Every year, a different legend from Ataun and its surroundings is related, making different protagonists known and immersing the town in the world of mythology. In this way, the following have been narrated: the story of the last gentile, the story of the golden sheet from the Agerre farmhouse, the legend of Torto de Muski, the secret of the wheat, the story of when the girl from Arbeldi fell in the Agaramunda cave to mention but a few. On the Sunday of the San Martín (November 11th) fiestas, at six o’clock in the afternoon, bonfires are lit on the mountains, the public lighting system is switched off and a show that joins the past with the present begins. The gentiles have arrived in the town. Out of San Martín Square come the mayor, the priest and the bailiff representing the town, with the person who makes the opening speech at the head, they join the gentiles, witches and other characters who come from Jentilbaratza and then they give the performance in the Auzoeta sports centre.

NIGHT ROUTE OF MYTHOLOGY

We entered the heart of Ataun and the area where Joxemiel Barandiaran lived.

Along the path we will be accompanied by characters from Basque mythology. To do this, we will complete the journey between the Barandiaran Museum and the Plaza de San Martín. A fantastic 3-kilometer tour full of surprises. It is an accessible tour for anyone used to walking on the trail.

For tickets and information about events, go to the Jentilbaratza Association portal.

LEGENDS ON MYTHOLOGICAL PATHS


Barandiaran Route
Entering the mythology of Ataun

It is said that the Gentiles built the church in the square. Legend says that Christians began to build the church in the current location of the cemetery. But at night the Gentiles of Jentilbaratza brought down all the stones accumulated during the day by the Christians to a place by the river, where the present church is located. One night a woman from Zaindegi began to spy from the window to see who was bringing the stones down to the river. A Gentile who was working with his ox passed by Zaindegi and said: Giddy up white, Giddy up red Take out the eye of the woman who spies! Since then the woman was left blinded in one eye and everyone gave in to the will of the Gentiles and helped build the church in its present location.    

Like many others around the world, on a particular day the owner of Sanztegi cultivated the land with his oxen.

Suddenly the oxen escape to the Lamiñosin well, with the plough and everything. And out from the well comes a nymph with her hair tangled in the teeth of the plough. Then the man tells her that he will keep her safe and to go with him to his home. Off to the house the nymph goes, obeying the man. But no matter how much he tried, he could not get a word out of her. One night, the man put the milk on the stove to heat and went to the farmyard leaving the nymph alone in the kitchen. When the milk began to overflow she escaped through the fireplace shouting “the white goes up”, leaving her comb in the kitchen.

The next day the nymph returned and called the lady of Sanztegi:

Mrs. Geaxi;

Return my comb to me;

Otherwise I will make you lose;

your future offspring.

Then Geaxi went to the priest to know what to do and he told her to put the nymph´s comb on a long stick. She did so and called the nymph. The nymph came, took the comb and disappeared breaking the stick in two. And low and behold, that is the end of the story.

 

On this particular occasion a Gentile who lived in the cave of Muski caught a Christian. And in order for him not to escape from the cave he placed a magic ring on one of his fingers , which shouted  “I am here, I am here”.

One day the Christian hid among the sheepskin accumulated by the gentile. As the gentile heard the ring´s cry quite far away, he thought it came from afar and opened the door leaving the cave. Then, the Christian came out from under the skins, started to run and got as far away from there as his legs would carry him.

But the Gentile heard the ring´s cry and ran after him. In view of the situation the Christian surrendered but decided that the ring finger could be cut off and thrown into the Mekolalde River; and so he did. The Gentile, hearing that the ring´s cries came from the bottom of the river, jumped in and drowned in it. (Tartalo).

 

Javier of Arratinea, a vain young man, went one night to Urretxu, to have a good time. At that time all the girls in the area gathered in Urretxu to knit.

After having fun in the village, Javier pretended to be a priest and gave a cooked chestnut to each of them in the form of communion.

He then began to say that he was going home and the girls didn’t want to let him leave saying he had committed a great sin and feared something bad would happen to him. But Javier was very vain and left for home.

On the way back to Tellerietxe, in the forest of Laioa he saw mythological bulls (zezengorris) heading towards him. Frightened, the boy ran and knocked at the door of Tellerietxe. He asked for a dog and returned to his route tempting the dog with a corn cake. Then a mythological bull of fire appeared to him addressing him through Laika. But while the dog was by his side he was not afraid.

But by the time he arrived with Lauztiazpikoa, to the point where he took the deviation towards Arratiñea, the cake had finished and the dog turned around towards Tellerietxe. Then, the mythological bulls appeared again. Javier ran as he had never done before and entered Arratiñea homestead by the skin of his teeth.

That night the cows of the Arratiñea farm had no truce. Roars, horns and yokes were heard.

 

One day the habitants of the homestead Artzate built a warehouse to produce lime and the Gentiles shouted from the top of Iruzuloeta. And from down below they answered them:

– It would be better for you to came down to help instead of continuing to scream.

The Gentiles, when they heard this, took a huge, wretched hammer, and threw it from above, destroying the whole warehouse.

 

Javier of Arratinea, a vain young man, went one night to Urretxu, to have a good time. At that time all the girls in the area gathered in Urretxu to knit.

After having fun in the village, Javier pretended to be a priest and gave a cooked chestnut to each of them in the form of communion.

He then began to say that he was going home and the girls didn’t want to let him leave saying he had committed a great sin and feared something bad would happen to him. But Javier was very vain and left for home.

On the way back to Tellerietxe, in the forest of Laioa he saw mythological bulls (zezengorris) heading towards him. Frightened, the boy ran and knocked at the door of Tellerietxe. He asked for a dog and returned to his route tempting the dog with a corn cake. Then a mythological bull of fire appeared to him addressing him through Laika. But while the dog was by his side he was not afraid.

But by the time he arrived with Lauztiazpikoa, to the point where he took the deviation towards Arratiñea, the cake had finished and the dog turned around towards Tellerietxe. Then, the mythological bulls appeared again. Javier ran as he had never done before and entered Arratiñea homestead by the skin of his teeth.

That night the cows of the Arratiñea farm had no truce. Roars, horns and yokes were heard.

 

The Berreno Route
Following the trail of the witches

The bridge of Mandaibieta was meant be the meeting point of the witches in Ataun. They say that they gathered there every night, and in places far from the mountains, from midnight until cockcrow.

 

A muleteer of Sakana, Navarra, used to come to Ataun and go from house to house selling salt.

On one particular occasion, on his way home from Ataun, it got late and dark while he was in the forest. And in view of the situation he decided to stop in the Berrenoa countryside, perhaps at a point known as Dantzaleku.

He tied the donkey on one side and he lay down to spend the night on a hill of the field, without any fear of the beasts of the forest.

While there he heard the voices of a group of people speaking and it seemed to him that they were coming to the Berrenoa hill.

The witches arrived immediately, it was a large group, and they started dancing with great noise and frenzy.

A while later Maripetraliñ appeared and took a woman and placed her next to her at a beech tree. And he said to her:

– Do you know that the daughter of king is sick, about to die?

– No – the other replied.

– Do you not know why?

– Why?

– Last Sunday the girl was in Mass and when she received the sacred host she dropped a piece and it fell into a groove of the grave slab below. Now a toad has it in its throat, unable to swallow it. If they took it from the toad, cleaned it in a fountain and gave it to the sick woman to swallow she would heal immediately.

The rooster crowed shortly afterwards and the witches moved away quickly.

Gentilbaratza route
The Gentiles watch

It is said that the Gentiles built the church in the square. Legend says that Christians began to build the church in the current location of the cemetery. But at night the Gentiles of Jentilbaratza brought down all the stones accumulated during the day by the Christians to a place by the river, where the present church is located.

One night a woman from Zaindegi began to spy from the window to see who was bringing the stones down to the river.

A Gentile who was working with his ox passed by Zaindegi and said:

Giddy up white, Giddy up red

Take out the eye

of the woman who spies!

Since then the woman was left blinded in one eye and everyone gave in to the will of the Gentiles and helped build the church in its present location.

 

 

Once upon a time a very strong gentile lived in Jentilbaratza: he dominated all other Gentiles.

He spent his time turning going from Jentilbaratza to Leizadi and from Leizadi to Jentilbaratza. And one day it occurred to him to go down to where the Christians were to check if there was a man with whom he could fight.

He headed for Lazkao and on the way he met a fourteen year old boy. He asked him if he was a man. “I’m not a man yet, I’m too young,” the boy replied.

After passing Lazkao he met an old man on the road to Senpere and asked him also if he was a man. The elder answered him that he was on his way back but that in Beasain forge he would find some big strong men.

The Gentile went straight to Beasain’s ironmongers and asked if there were men there. And a Christian blacksmith came out. And then the Gentile said to him, “If there is any man able to bend my claw, let him come out.”

The blacksmith answered yes, “I hope I come out with two fingers.” Thus, he caught the gentile with the red hot tongs from the fire and cut off his nose.

The gentile returned to Jentilbaratza screaming and shouting and his friends asked him what had happened to him. “Christians have bad arts,” he said. And since then the Gentiles fear Christians.

 

 

In the past Gentiles lived in Jentilbaratza. Many nights they went down to the homestead Agerre to play cards, until the rooster sang at dawn.

On one occasion the owner of Agerre became ill and went to the church to receive the sacraments. When the Gentiles found out, even if they were not Christians, they brought down the golden bedsheet to Agerre and made the bed with it so that the sick would receive the holy sacraments.

It seems that Agerre wanted to keep the golden sheet and nailed it to bed and even forced the rooster to sing.

When the Gentiles heard the crowing of the cock, they pulled off the sheet and ran away, but a piece of the linen was stuck to the bed and the Gentiles cast a curse: that while Agerre was Agerre in that house there would be no shortage of diseases or disabilities. And since then there has always been someone sick in Agerre.

 

Sarastarri route
Secrets of the cave

The cave of Armontaitz is located on the mountains of Leizadi, on the homestead Aiarre. In the evening the shepherd of the hamlet Mendiurkullu kept his sheep in this cave. In the mornings the muddy entrance of the cave used to be full of footprints indicating the presence of Gentiles in that place.

 

 

A group of coal workers working in the vicinity of Sarastarri drew the necessary water from the existing well in the cave. One day a young coalman went to the cave to fetch water with his own pitcher; but he returned to the cabin scared and without any water.

Then, the chief of the coal workers went to the cave but also returned scared and without water in the jug. The two said the same thing: that at the entrance of the cave they had seen a beautiful and slender young girl combing her hair; it was Mother Earth herself, coming to Marimundu de Agaramunda, and that they had fled thinking that such a spectacle in a place like that was not good omen.

 

 

Three brothers from the Imatzenea hamlet went up the mountain with their sheep on Good Friday, to the sheep fold of Ubegi. In the vicinity of the cave of Ubegi, three mythological bulls (zezengorri) came out of the cave and headed towards them.

The three brothers, frightened, fled to the top Agautz with the mythological bulls behind them. One of the brothers died on the path of Aldatsa de Agautz; the second in the area of Erremedy; and the third managed to get home but died a few days later.

At the time when the Gentiles lived in a cave of Leizadi a tremendously beautiful star appeared among the clouds. Seeing such a star, the Gentiles were absolutely terrified because they were unable to understand what would happen in the world.

Then, they brought an old half-blind gentile who lived inside the to the entrance and with the help of a shovel or palette opened his eyes in the hope that he would understand what he saw. And as soon as he saw it he cried: “Ah, my children, Kixki is born, we are now lost!Throw me down the ravine!” And that´s how the Gentile elder died.

Later, when Christendom began to spread throughout the world, the Gentiles were dispersed and disappeared quickly.

 

LEGENDS THROUGH THE VILLAGE

GENTILES

The Gentiles, Basques before Christianity, are strong giants. They live in the mountains and throw big stones at their enemies. They built, among others, menhur (gentile stones) and cromlech (orchard of gentiles), as well as churches, bridges and houses of the Basque Country. They are also called mairuak. They knew about agriculture before anyone else and have taught many things to man. This type of beings enjoy great prestige in Indo-European mythology.

NYMPHS

The nymphs are beautiful woman-like creatures and they are usually found in rivers. They have a duck or goat feet, comb their hair with a golden comb and enthrall human beings. They also appear in Greek and Roman mythology.

TARTALO

Tartalo is an evil being with one eye. He lives in caves and catches and devours young people. Its origin is the cyclops of Greek mythology.

BASAJAUN or THE LORD OF THE FOREST

His own name defines who he was: The lord of the forest. He is tall and strong and his hair reaches his knees. In addition to caring for the flock, he cries out to the shepherd when a storm is approaching. He protects the cattle against the wolves and when he is near the sheep move their bells.

WITCHES

At night, the night witches hold meetings called aquelarre. They often take the form of a cat, donkey or beast and usually lack some part of the body (hand, leg or head). Between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries many trials against witches were held in the Basque Country and in them popular beliefs, religion, neighborhood disputes and politics were mixed.

MARI

Mari is the queen of goddesses. This figure is usually depicted with a woman’s body and face, elegantly dressed (usually in red). It also appears as a tree, eagle, cow, or woman of fire. Sugaar is her partner. She lives in the caves of many mountains (Larrunarri, Murumendi…)

ZEZENGORRI

Zezengorri is a being who lives in caves. It takes the shape of a cow or a bull and protects the dwellings of Mari. There are people who believe it is Mari itself. It should be noted that the bull has been very important in all the culture of southern Europe.

SUGAAR

Sugaar is the husband of the goddess Mari. It is snake shaped and is closely linked to storms and thunder. Among other things, he punishes children who do not obey their parents.

GAUEKO

Gaueko is the lord of the night and does not allow humans to work at night.Gaueko catches and takes the young people who usually perform feats and bets at night.

ZOZOMIKOTEAK

En varios pueblos de Gipuzkoa y Navarra se denomina Zozomikoteak a los dos últimos días y medio de marzo y a los dos primeros días y medio de abril. Se trata de la época en la que los tordos comienzan a construir su nido.

Legend has it that the 7 black virgins in Gipuzkoa left the hermitage of San Sebastian, formerly located in the area of Umarki and dispersed throughout the province.

 

Antón the sacristan went to Ordizia on one occasion.

At night on the way back home, in the surroundings of Umarki a donkey appeared , walking in front of him.

Antón the sacristan wanted to climb onto the donkey, and he did.

When they reached the crossroads of Urkuola the donkey was heading towards Urkuola and the sacristan, on the contrary, wanted to continue upwards.

He could no longer endure the attitude of the donkey and stuck a knife in its back.

The donkey hid in Urkuola with knife and everything and the sacristan continued on foot to his house.

Then the vicar said that they should go to Urkuola to give the last sacraments.

The vicar and sacristan left for Urkuola. There was an old woman who was sick.

When she saw the sacristan the sick woman turned away from him and did not want to confess.

In the end vicar and sacristan left without giving the last sacraments.

On his way home the sacristan told the vicar what had happened to him earlier near Urkuola.

Then the vicar understood why the sick woman had not wanted to see the sacristan and what illness she had and returned to Urkuola again; but alone. And then that woman confessed and then died.

 

 

The Agauntza River has a well near the Berrarain hamlet, a well called Lamiñosin. On one occasion a man was walking around and two nymphs approached him. One said to the other:

– Grab him, Grab him.

And the other answered:

– You grab him!. He´s taking rue and celery to his mother. (Rue and celery bundles were used as good luck charms).

 

Where the first rays of the morning sun of San Juan shine there is gold stored in an ox skin bottle; for example, on the wall of Urrezulo.

 

The caves located in the mallo of Artzateaitz, and especially the two closest to the hamlet Artzateberri, were bitten open by the Gentiles. And the walnut trees located in front of the caves were also planted there by the Gentiles.

In Ataun it is said that at night it´s bad luck to go round the house three times, but it´s ok with a bouquet of laurel in your hand. Every evening a group of women gathered in the hamlet closest to Erremedy to do some knitting.

One night one of them, called Kattalin, bet the rest that she would go around the farmhouse three times. And she did two laps but when she was on the third one she disappeared. A while later the following phrase was heard in Kattalinzubi: Kattalin, the Devil has taken you. And no one heard of Kattalin ever again.

 

Snake. In the area of Ataun it is said that it crosses the sky in the form of a half-moon of fire, preceding the storm. It is believed that it lives underground and comes to the surface by the cave of Agaramunda, by Sugaarzulo de Kuutzegorri or by Sugaarzulo de Arrateta. The serpent punishes the disobedience of the ancestors. (Sugaar)

 

 

It is said that on the hill of Artzate, in the middle of the rocks Gurutzeberri and Azpildi, which are opposite each other, horses of fire passed, indescribable , in front of Sugaarzulo; this cave is on the ravine and next to a narrow road that winds through the rock.

It is said that there is an ox skin full of gold in Erreberentzileku, on a slope next to the church of San Gregorio; but it is so shallow that it would be possible to unearth it with a goat’s hoof. Another ox skin is also hidden in the headland between the roads of Larburu and Urkullaga, so high that it can be unearthed with a sheep’s hoof.

 

According to the elders of the parish of San Gregorio in a prayer for water someone wet the image of the patron by passing it through the fountain of Gomensoro and immediately there was a heavy downpour so by the time they arrived at the church the participants were soaked.

 

In the parish of Aia, during a prayer for water to the image of Santa Isabel they dipped the image in the fountain between the hamlets of Aiarre and Aiaetxeberri and by the time they arrived at the church it was raining; but it is said that it rained so much that it moved so much land and caused a lot of damage to the harvest.

 

Mateo Txistu was condemned to walk around the world with his dogs without rest as punishment for his over indulgence in hunting.

The priest hasn´t returned and never will. He left with his dogs to follow a hare in the middle of mass! Nobody has seen him since, but many people say that they can often here his whistle of the deep bark of his dogs around our forests and mountains.

On one occasion a woman of the hamlet Tellerietxe saw the shadows of the priest and his dogs in the light of the winter moon; but no one else has seen them.

 

In the past a large group of weavers gathered every night in the hamlet Lauspeltz. One of those nights one of the girls said: “I´ll bring water from the mountain fountain that´s next to the Iturriotz farmhouse” and the others insisted she couldn´t , so they made a bet. Thus, the girl took a jug and headed towards the fountain while the others remained at the entrance of Lauspeltz under the moonlight.

From time to time they shouted “Where are you?” and she answered, “I´m here .” But, suddenly, the responses ceased.

Shortly afterwards a burst of air arrived at the entrance of Lauspeltz and someone said:

The night for the night owls and the daylight for the day people.

The girl was never heard of again. (Gaueko)

In a place called Arbotxota, in Ataun, near the Iturriotz hamlets, there was a great rock; it was said that you couldn’t touch the rock unless you were blessed. It is said that the genius, a being called Sugar launched it from the top of Mount Muski.

 

In a house in the neighborhood of Aia, a young girl from San Gregorio worked as a maid. Every feast day she went down to her parents’ house and then, at sunset on Sunday, she returned to Aia, but she never felt like returning. She preferred to be at home than to work as a maid. Her mother often gave out to her for it.

On one occasion, one of those Sunday evenings, the mother cursed at her and screamed at her to go to Aia as she was late, as always. And the girl left for Aia weeping, and went up through Agaramunda. When she arrived at the cave of Agaramunda she climbed the hazelnut tree located above the entrance of the cave as she wanted to collect the hazelnuts.

But unfortunately the branch broke and the girl fell inside the cave. Neighbours and family spent days looking for her but found no trace of her. Later a girl’s finger was found, with her ring, under the bridge of Arbeldi, and according to other sources it was in the kitchen of Andraleize.

 

One year a shepherd was very angry about the bad weather in March. On the last day of the month the shepherd snapped at March: “Ah, March, March, I wish you the worst.”

Then March asked April: “April, April give me two and a half days for the one hundred sheep and the ram lost by the shepherd.” And April granted him two and a half days. And those days March brought a tremendous storm and a downpour of water which made all the sheep disappear in the cave of Ubegi.

The shepherd grabbed the ram but the horn got stuck into his eye and he lost it. Since then on the first two and a half days of the month of April there´s usually bad weather. (Zozomikoteak)

Maruak;  This is the name given to the fearsome characters who live in the caves of Marumendi. The townsfolk were afraid of them because everyone who approached the place disappeared. It is also said that they stole the heads of cattle. In Ataun there are two caves known as Mauzulo.

A few years ago a young Gentile woman went down to the hamlet Erriondo to weave with the youth of the village. On one occasion a young woman spoke to her in rude way and since then she has not returned.

 

The Gentiles lived in at least two places in Aia: in Armontaitz and Aiaiturrieta.

The gentile woman of the cave Armontaitze located in the upper part of Aia, called Zirpizarba, went to the hamlet Aiarrezar to help their inhabitants weed the corn of the field called Kixkarre.

In the morning, gentile footprints were seen everywhere; signs of the activity taken place during the night. On one occasion when a gentile from Aiaiturrieta was working, he cried out, saying: Zirpizarba is dead. Zirpizarba immediately went down to Aiaiturrieta.

The next day Zirpizarba, when she went to Aiarre, commented that Zirpizarba had died.

 

On one occasion a Navarran man changed Irumugata’s boundary stone from one place to another: when he died, he wandered around Irumugata shouting:

Cairn of Irumugata,

Downfall of my soul.

Where to leave you! Where to leave you!

And suddenly another Navarran man answered him: leave it in the place from which you took it. Since then the cries have never been heard again.

 

They say that in the cave of Askoa lived a Lord of the forest (Basajaun). He met with a group of coalmen from Ataun. One of the coalmen, after making a hole with his axe in a log, asked the forest lord to put his hands in to hold the axe inside, and pass it on to the other side.

The forest lord did as he was asked but the coalman took the axe by closing the trunks opening and trapping the forest lord’s hands in the trunk.

The coalmen brought the lord of the forest down to the town, so that the people could see him, and then released him, but soon the coalman disappeared without a trace.

 

At one time a shepherd lived in a hut in Leizadi. Every day, by the time he had the brew prepared, a young gentile came down from the cave above, sat on a stone seat and drank it all.

On one occasion the shepherd told a friend what happened and his friend told him to have the stone seat burning hot for when the gentile came down the next time.

And that´s what happened, the next day he did what his friend recommended. And the Gentile came just after the shepherd took the stone seat out of the fire. He sat in the seat as always but immediately began to shout and fled.

When his cries were heard, the Gentile’s parents went outside the cave and asked their son, “Who did it? Who did it?” “I myself, I myself.” “This will have come in handy to that shepherd boy over there,” they said, and brought the subject to a close.

 

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